Application of NMN as a Cosmetic Ingredient
β-Nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN), the key precursor of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD?), has recently become a hotspot in cosmetic research because of its central role in cellular energy metabolism and aging regulation. By elevating intracellular NAD? levels, NMN activates the sirtuin (SIRT) family of longevity proteins, modulates the cellular redox balance and stimulates collagen synthesis, thereby offering a new avenue for skin anti-aging.
Safety Profile
Safety is the foremost criterion for any cosmetic raw material. Studies show that an aqueous solution containing 1 % NMN and its formulation base produced no irritation in the hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) assay (irritation scores of 1 and 4, respectively). Furthermore, patch tests on 31 volunteers revealed no erythema, papules or other positive reactions, confirming excellent skin compatibility [2]. These data provide critical support for the safe use of NMN in both leave-on and rinse-off cosmetic products.

Efficacy Studies
NMN exhibits multifaceted skin-care benefits. In vitro, 0.003 % NMN significantly suppressed LPS-induced NO release from RAW264.7 macrophages, achieving an inhibition rate of 16.86 % (p < 0.0001), indicating potent soothing and anti-inflammatory activity [2]. In UVB-damaged human foreskin fibroblasts (HFF-1), 0.005 % NMN up-regulated type I collagen expression by 45.19 % (p < 0.05), directly promoting dermal structural repair [2]. A 28-day human trial with 34 volunteers further demonstrated that daily use of a formulation containing 1 % NMN reduced skin recoil time by 18.14 % (p < 0.05), confirming a measurable firming effect [2].
Challenges and Outlook
Despite these advantages, the cosmetic use of NMN still faces obstacles. Its high hydrophilicity limits percutaneous absorption, necessitating formulation strategies such as liposomal encapsulation or nanocarrier systems [2]. Moreover, long-term stability and chronic safety require additional investigation.
With continued advances in delivery technologies and deeper mechanistic elucidation, NMN is poised to become a next-generation functional cosmetic ingredient that integrates anti-inflammatory, reparative and firming benefits, offering innovative solutions for anti-aging skin care.
References
- [1] Gao B, Long Y, Peng C, et al. Safety and efficacy evaluation of β-nicotinamide mononucleotide in cosmetics. Science Square, 2024(11): 24-29.
- [2] Chen S, Wang L, Jiang H. Research progress on the anti-aging mechanisms, applications and detection of nicotinamide mononucleotide. Chinese Journal of Applied Chemistry, 2025, 42(2): 168-181.
*Special note - This article is for informational purposes only and cannot replace a doctor's treatment diagnosis and advice. It should not be regarded as a recommendation or proof of efficacy of the medical products involved. If it involves disease diagnosis, treatment, and rehabilitation, please be sure to go to a professional medical institution to seek professional advice.
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